How to Paint 3D Printed Figures Like a Pro: A Step-by-Step Guide

How to Paint 3D Printed Figures Like a Pro: A Step-by-Step Guide - KREATYX

Introduction: Painting Is Where the Magic Happens

A freshly printed figure is impressive on its own — but a painted one is breathtaking. Painting transforms a grey resin or white PLA print into a vibrant, lifelike character that looks like it jumped straight out of a screen. The good news? You don't need to be an artist to get great results. With the right process, the right tools, and a little patience, anyone can paint stunning 3D printed figures.

This guide walks you through the entire painting process from start to finish, whether you're working with resin prints, FDM figures, or cosplay props.

What You'll Need

Paints

  • Acrylic paints — Water-based, easy to thin, and available in hundreds of colors. Citadel (Games Workshop), Vallejo, and Army Painter are popular choices in the miniature community.
  • Washes/Inks — Thin, dark paints that flow into recesses and add instant depth. Citadel Nuln Oil (black) and Agrax Earthshade (brown) are community favorites.
  • Dry brushing paint — Thick, fast-drying paint used for highlighting raised surfaces.

Brushes

  • A size 1 or 2 round brush for base coating
  • A size 0 or 00 detail brush for fine work (eyes, lips, small details)
  • A flat brush for dry brushing

Other Supplies

  • Spray primer (grey or white)
  • Palette or wet palette to keep paints workable
  • Matte varnish spray for sealing
  • Blu-Tack or a painting handle to hold your figure

Step 1: Prepare Your Print

Before any paint touches your figure, preparation is everything.

  • Remove supports carefully — Use flush cutters and clean up any nubs with a hobby knife or sandpaper.
  • Sand the surface — For FDM prints, sand from 120 to 400 grit to smooth layer lines. Resin prints need less sanding but benefit from a light 400-grit pass.
  • Wash the print — Resin prints must be washed in IPA to remove uncured resin. FDM prints should be wiped down to remove dust and oils.
  • UV cure (resin only) — Ensure your resin print is fully cured before painting.

Step 2: Prime Your Figure

Primer is non-negotiable. It creates a surface that paint can grip, reveals surface imperfections you can fix before painting, and provides a consistent base color.

  • Use a grey primer for most figures — it's neutral and works well under both light and dark colors.
  • Use white primer if you're painting bright or pastel colors.
  • Use black primer for dark, gritty, or metallic schemes.
  • Apply in thin, even coats from about 30cm away. Two light coats are better than one heavy coat.
  • Let dry fully (30–60 minutes) before painting.

Step 3: Base Coat

The base coat is your first layer of color. The goal is to cover all the primer with flat, solid colors — don't worry about shading or highlights yet.

  • Thin your paints slightly with water (2:1 paint to water ratio is a good starting point)
  • Apply 2–3 thin coats rather than one thick coat to avoid obscuring detail
  • Work from large areas to small details
  • Let each coat dry before applying the next

Step 4: Apply Washes for Depth

This is the step that makes the biggest visual difference with the least skill required. A wash flows into the recesses of your figure and creates instant shadow and depth.

  • Apply a wash over your base-coated areas
  • Let it flow naturally into recesses — don't brush it on like regular paint
  • Wipe away excess from raised surfaces with a clean, slightly damp brush
  • Let dry completely before moving on (30–60 minutes)

Step 5: Layer and Highlight

Layering builds up color from dark to light, creating a sense of volume and dimension.

  • Layering — Apply your base color back over raised areas, leaving the wash visible in recesses
  • Edge highlighting — Apply a lighter version of your color to the very edges of raised surfaces using a fine brush
  • Dry brushing — Load a flat brush with paint, wipe most of it off on a paper towel, then lightly drag it across raised surfaces for a quick highlight effect

Step 6: Detail Work

Now for the fine details — eyes, gems, insignias, and other small elements that bring your figure to life.

  • Paint eyes by starting with white, then adding a colored iris, then a black pupil
  • Add a tiny white dot to the pupil for a lifelike glint
  • Use metallic paints for armor, weapons, and accessories
  • Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) effects for glowing elements like magic or energy weapons

Step 7: Seal Your Work

Always seal your finished figure with a varnish to protect your paintwork.

  • Matte varnish — Most common for figures; eliminates shine for a realistic look
  • Satin varnish — Slight sheen, good for skin tones
  • Gloss varnish — High shine, great for gems, eyes, and wet surfaces
  • Apply in thin coats in a warm, dry environment to avoid frosting

Start with the Best STL Files

Great painting starts with great prints. Our premium STL packs are designed with painting in mind — deep recesses for washes, crisp edges for highlighting, and fine surface detail that rewards careful brushwork:

Master the Full Process

Want to go deeper on printing, post-processing, and painting? Our 3D Printing Masterclass Course covers the complete workflow from file to finished, painted figure — with expert tips that will dramatically accelerate your progress.

Conclusion

Painting 3D printed figures is a skill that grows with every model you complete. Start simple, be patient with yourself, and focus on enjoying the process. Each figure you paint will be better than the last. Now grab a brush and bring your prints to life!

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